As the 2024 Paris Olympics approach, sport climbing is set to captivate audiences with its unique blend of athleticism and strategy. Making its debut at the Tokyo 2021 Games, climbing has rapidly gained traction, and this year’s event promises to showcase some of the sport’s top talents. Here’s a comprehensive guide to what you need to know about climbing at the Paris Games, including the format, the athletes to watch, and how the competition differs from Tokyo.
How Olympic Climbing Works
Sport climbing at the Olympics is divided into three distinct disciplines: bouldering, lead, and speed. Each discipline tests different aspects of a climber’s skill set and contributes to the overall competition in unique ways.
- Bouldering: Athletes climb a 4.5-meter (nearly 15 feet) wall without ropes. The goal is to ascend in the fewest attempts and within a limited timeframe. Climbers are judged on how high they climb and how efficiently they complete the course, with scoring based on reaching specific zones and the top hold.
- Lead Climbing: Climbers tackle a 15-meter (nearly 50 feet) wall within a six-minute timeframe. Their goal is to climb as high as possible. Points are awarded for each hold secured, with additional points for attempting higher holds. If a climber fails to secure a hold, they receive partial credit for their previous performance.
- Speed Climbing: In this head-to-head race, climbers compete to scale a 15-meter wall as quickly as possible. The competition is structured in elimination rounds, with climbers racing against the clock and each other. The top climbers can complete the climb in under six seconds for men and seven seconds for women.
For the Paris Olympics, speed climbing has been separated into its own event, distinct from bouldering and lead climbing. This change allows athletes to specialize and focus on their strengths, resulting in a more precise and exciting competition format.
New Scoring System
The scoring system for Paris differs significantly from Tokyo. Previously, scores from bouldering, lead, and speed climbing were combined multiplicatively to determine the final standings. This year, with speed climbing separated, bouldering and lead climbing scores will be capped at 200 points. In bouldering, climbers accumulate points by advancing through zones and reaching the top hold. In lead climbing, points are awarded based on the number of holds secured, with a bonus for attempting higher holds.
Top Team USA Athletes
Sam Watson: At just 18, Watson is the current men’s speed world record holder with a time of 4.79 seconds. He finished 2023 ranked eighth globally and secured gold at the Pan American Games in Santiago. His speed and precision make him a strong contender for the podium.
Natalia Grossman: The reigning No. 1 in women’s bouldering, Grossman also excelled in the combined boulder & lead category, finishing fifth. She clinched gold in both boulder and lead at the Pan American Games, showcasing her versatility and competitive edge.
Brooke Raboutou: Raboutou, who finished fifth in Tokyo, is known for her strong climbing pedigree. The daughter of former climbing world champions Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou and Didier Raboutou, she brings a wealth of experience and fluency in French, enhancing her international appeal.
International Stars to Watch
Janja Garnbret (Slovenia): The reigning women’s gold medalist, Garnbret, will be competing in lead and bouldering. Her dominance in the sport and experience make her a formidable opponent.
Aleksandra Miroslav (Poland): A standout in women’s speed climbing, Miroslav’s impressive times and technical skill will make her a key figure in the speed climbing events.
Ai Mori (Japan): Mori is a notable force in both bouldering and lead climbing, bringing a high level of skill and competitive spirit to the Games.
Rahmad Adi Mulyon and Veddriq Leonardo (Indonesia): These speed climbers are expected to challenge Watson for top honors, with their quick times and competitive performances.
Jakob Schubert (Australia): A four-time world champion, Schubert is a major contender in men’s lead and bouldering, known for his consistent high-level performances.
Looking Ahead to Paris 2024
As the climbing competition heats up in Paris, the sport’s evolution since its Tokyo debut will be on full display. With a focus on specialized disciplines and a revised scoring system, the 2024 Games promise to offer a fresh and thrilling perspective on sport climbing. Fans can expect high-flying action, strategic gameplay, and the emergence of new climbing stars as the athletes vie for Olympic glory.
Stay tuned for more updates on the climbing events as we approach the Paris Olympics, and follow the athletes as they climb their way to the top of the podium.
