The Sly Feminism of ‘Wicked’ Costumes: Paul Tazewell on Designing Iconic Wardrobes for a New Era
When it comes to bringing Wicked to the big screen, few artists could weave as much versatility and creativity into the project as Paul Tazewell, the celebrated costume designer behind West Side Story and Harriet. For the upcoming Wicked films, Tazewell took on the monumental task of reimagining the beloved Broadway characters in a way that would resonate with modern audiences while paying homage to the legacy of L. Frank Baum’s Oz universe.
Tazewell’s unique approach combined a love for period design with his eye for fantasy, creating costumes that capture both the essence of the story and the emotional evolution of the characters. With an Academy Award nomination under his belt and a deep connection to the Oz world, Tazewell brings a distinctive touch to this high-profile project, offering a refreshing take on the iconic costumes of Glinda, Elphaba, and the rest of the Oz-ian cast.
Crafting Costumes for a World of Fantasy and Emotion
For Tazewell, the process of reinterpreting Wicked was both a creative challenge and a personal journey. “I love period work and telling stories connected to history,” he explains, noting how his previous work in period dramas informed his approach. “What excited me about Wicked was designing a world rooted in period silhouettes while also creating a fantasy.” The task was to stay true to the essence of the Broadway musical, which has captivated audiences for years, while adding layers of depth to reflect the characters’ internal growth.
Drawing inspiration from a mix of sources – including L. Frank Baum’s original novel, the 1939 Wizard of Oz film, Gregory Maguire’s Wicked, and the iconic Broadway production – Tazewell found his own path. “Wicked was about digging deep into where the original story came from. With four distinct expressions of the same story, I stayed true to the visual language of the play but added new elements to tell a more modern and nuanced version,” he says. This balance of nostalgia and innovation is evident in the costumes, which feel both timeless and refreshingly original.
The Art of Character-Centric Costume Design
A trademark of Tazewell’s work is his commitment to grounding each costume in character and emotional narrative. He spent hours crafting designs that spoke not only to the visual beauty of the costume but also to the inner lives of the characters. The costumes for Cynthia Erivo’s Elphaba and Ariana Grande’s Glinda exemplify this principle, with each garment reflecting the character’s journey in the fantastical world of Oz.
For Elphaba, Tazewell embraced a darker, more daring aesthetic that aligns with the character’s sense of individuality and inner strength. Drawing inspiration from Victorian fashion, particularly 1890s silhouettes, the designer focused on creating a costume that felt grounded in nature, while also reflecting Elphaba’s uniqueness. “I wanted to make bolder choices for her — a reflection of her inner world,” says Tazewell. The result is a Victorian-inspired gown with intricate details, such as micro-pleated fabrics and felted embroidery, inspired by mushrooms and Fibonacci spirals. The skirt’s movement, the puffed sleeves, and the overall design reflect how Elphaba takes up space in her world and how she moves through life.
Glinda’s Magical Bubble Dress: A Modern Feminine Icon
When it came to Glinda’s costume, Tazewell paid tribute to the original Glinda, played by Billie Burke in the 1939 Wizard of Oz, while updating it for a more modern sensibility. The iconic bubble dress, worn by Ariana Grande, is a masterclass in both design and technical innovation. “We gave it a more sculptural, modern interpretation,” Tazewell explains, pointing to the translucent fabrics and whimsical structure that evoke the lightness of bubbles floating into the sky. Beneath the gown, a crinoline layer and hoop skirt give the dress its structure, while iridescent organza and stiff nylon netting cut into spirals create a sense of lightness and movement. The dress is adorned with beads, crystals, and sequins, giving it an ethereal quality that captures the magic of Glinda’s character.
“Glinda’s dress had to feel weightless, as if it were floating on air,” Tazewell continues. “There was a lot of engineering involved to ensure it moved gracefully.” Inspired by the elegance of Grace Kelly and Dior’s 1950s skirt suits, the dress brings a vintage glamour to the fantasy world of Oz, while also adding a modern twist that speaks to contemporary ideals of femininity.
Infusing Feminism into the Fantasy Wardrobe
One of the standout features of Tazewell’s designs for Wicked is the underlying feminist sensibility woven into each costume. Both Elphaba and Glinda undergo significant personal transformations, and their costumes mirror those changes. For Elphaba, the costume reflects her marginalization and individuality, while Glinda’s bubble dress highlights her innocence, power, and the evolving dynamics of her relationship with Elphaba. By thoughtfully balancing the costumes’ visual language with the characters’ emotional journeys, Tazewell subtly reinforces themes of strength, identity, and personal growth.
Tazewell’s design choices also resonate with modern sensibilities around femininity. By taking risks and embracing bold design decisions for both Glinda and Elphaba, he creates costumes that are not just beautiful but also empowering. Each piece reflects the inner worlds of the characters, making the costumes not merely clothes but extensions of their personalities and journeys.
A Legacy of Storytelling Through Fashion
In the end, Tazewell’s work on Wicked is a testament to the power of costume design as storytelling. “For every character, I live vicariously through their story,” he says. “I want to infer a quality of life for them, one that becomes real once the actor steps into the costume and fully inhabits the role.” In the case of Wicked, the costumes do more than dress the actors—they enrich the story and offer audiences a visual language to connect with the characters on a deeper level.
Tazewell’s vision for Wicked seamlessly merges fantasy with history, nostalgia with innovation, and classic design with modern sensibilities. His work is a celebration of character, identity, and the transformative power of fashion, making it a key element of the film’s success. As the highly anticipated Wicked films unfold on the big screen, audiences will no doubt be enchanted not only by the magic of Oz but also by the carefully crafted costumes that bring the iconic characters to life in an entirely new way.
